Oct 30 - Trip to the island of Kakossa

Many things going on but we've been without internet for several days.  Yesterday got the opportunity to accompany an African pastor friend to visit a school on a local island.  3 hours by truck, then boat, then motorcycle and walking to get to this village! Something I'll never forget.  Drank clean water from their own well and visited and played with 60 children who attend the school made of coconut fronds.  But what an experience.

Oct 26 - Crocodile Fanny Pack

As a fan of the University of Florida (GO GATORS!) you might think that I wouldn't choose to wear crocodile.  On the other hand, how cool!  Went down to the Marche Cumoyenne to have a crocodile fanny pack made to order.  I'm sure it will be the only one in Bemidji.  Life in Guinea rolls on.  No election.  No news, yet, on a new date.  The rainy season is coming to an end and I've *heard* it gets cooler the rest of the year.  That would be nice.  It's certainly very hot - although I seem to be the only one sweating.

I'll attach a couple of more pictures to those of you who need photographic proof that I drummed and danced at our FETE yesterday.

Oct 25 - Drum party

Today was our big drum party with my drum teacher, Moussa, and some of his students.  We had a grand time.  I even got to play some.  We attracted lots of people who heard the music, came to see what was going on, and stayed to dance a bit.  Great fun.  The music is incredibly complicated layers - once you start to hear and realize what's going on.  Each person plays a specific pattern and it's generally played over and over throughout the piece.  The leader or soloist is the one who does the improvising above the accompaniment patterns.  Very infectious.  Makes you want to dance - even if you don't know how!

Oct 24 - Sneak peak at pics

Act surprised if you see these again!

Oct 24 - Bad news on the Elections

Unfortunately, yesterday they announced that today's Presidential elections (1st free democratic elections in Guinea) would be postponed.  The two remaining candidates were able to agree on a new election commissioner but they needed more time to get ballots out to the rest of the country.  Tough news.  Many schools (including mine) have been waiting until after the elections to open.  Not sure what they'll do now.
I also managed to mess up my anti-virus so I'm sitting in a Cyber Cafe at the moment TRYING to get something downloaded that I can use.
Otherwise life is good.  Loving the drum lessons although I've decided I'm not a natural at it... Thankfully my teacher is very patient!  

Oct 21 - Shopping

Turns out a trip to the Marche Madina is quite the adventure!  I was very glad to have an African friend with me.  I walked in front and she walked behind with her hand on my shoulder.  Very crowded - like NYC Subway crowded - and lots going on.  Was able to find several things I needed, including fabric to make 3 African outfits.  After we got back to the Hotel, the local tailor came by and did my measurements.  Should be ready by next Tuesday. Very exciting!

Oct 20 - Clothes

Crazy day already.  Wild (good) lesson with my djembe teacher for about 2 hrs then the Administrator from the Institute knocked on my hotel door to see how I was doing.  He said he'd stopped by several times but I was never there.  (ooops)  Fish lunch.  Then I made an appointment with the head of the hotel rooms to go into the market tomorrow and buy some fabric and then go to a tailor to get something made.  I need some African clothes.  I sortof stick out.

I admit I wilted pretty badly with the 48 hrs of no electricity (fan, AC, water, etc) but otherwise I love Guinea and am having a great time!

Oct 19 - Electricity

I just lived through 48 hours of no electricity or water.  That was an eye-opening experience.  After I used up the batteries in my laptop and my camera and my block batteries, I really felt lost.  I realize this is normal for the people here - but my western psyche really struggled.  It was 90 degrees and literally I couldn't do anything but sweat .  Two things saved me:  #1 I was reminded that God always answers.  Sometimes He says "Yes" and other times He says "I have something better for you."  #2 I hung out all day on the from porch of the hotel with the staff and the waitresses and cooks.  We really had a grand time!  I showed my pictures from home - family, house, grass (never seen before) and SNOW!  About mid-afternoon they realized the water issue was really getting to me and they brought me a bucket of water from the pump.  It was the best shower of my entire life!

I've had 3 drum lessons and they're quite amazing.  Imaging learning to play the drum while sitting in a park in Guinea!  I've learned a great deal already.  Working on my SikLik project to help preserve  their rhythms.

Oct 17 - First lesson

The housekeeper knocked on my hotel door this morning to tell me that my djembe teacher was downstairs. Djembe teacher?  I had no idea I even had one!  Turns out my new djembe was the talk of the community and one of the staff had a brother...  So now I have a teacher.  I zipped back upstairs to get a trip and video camera.  (Wouldn't hurt to go back and review the rhythms etc.)  We worked about an hour and it was great fun.  I know it takes a lifetime to learn an instrument well - but I'm hoping I get get a good hold on it in 10 months.  This is a completely oral tradition.  I believe that the SikLik project could be helpful in notating the rhythms and heritage.

Oct 16 - Buying a djembe

I write all these stories down in my diary (and blog) because no one would believe them otherwise.  I got a taxi to go downtown to the big market to get some adapter power plugs.  I mentioned to the driver that I was also interested in going to a little market strip that had djembes and such.  He took me there first.  A little touristy but such cool things like crocodile purses, and wood carvings, and small versions of musical instruments.  *Then* the driver to me to the *real* place to get a djembe.  In the 30 minutes that I was there, I got a mini-lesson on a rhythm pattern, he helped pick out a good drum to fit me, and I got a "professors" price, and I bought myself a real Guinean djembe drum.  Goat skin, painted design.  The real thing.  Then we went to the downtown market and I got my plugs and then went home.  Loved having a taxi-driver-chauffeur that stayed with me!

What struck me when I got back, though, was that I *didn't* learn what I wanted to learn.  What the name of the rhythm was, how many times do you play the pattern, what hand starts, what does the rhythm look like, when do you add other rhythms, etc.  All very western, theoretical, "SikLik" questions.  So, it comes down to this:  I didn't learn what I wanted to learn.  Maybe I can learn what they want to teach?  Working on it.

Oct 15 - Getting busy on my Fulbright project

In addition to my teaching assignment (not sure when that will start), I also have to have a "project."  Based on a wonderful idea from my brother, James, we're working on creating a cyclical rhythmic notational system that the Guinean people themselves can use to notate the indigenous rhythms.  Western notation just doesn't work but we have an idea that I think has great potential.  We call it "SikLik" notation (get it?) and our goal is to NOT westernize their rhythms or music, but to enable them to write down their rhythms themselves.  The most popular drum in the area is the djembe drum so we're using that as our instrument.

It's a great project!  Kudos to my brother!

Oct 13 - Sitting in the Dark

I got moved and am currently staying at the Hotel for the University of Conakry.  A little more out-of-the-way but much better food!  Unfortunately electricity and running water are always issues.  Spent the evening at the Peace Corps Volunteer swearing-in ceremony.  These 8 have finished their training and are ready to head out to their 2 year assignments across the country.  Very admirable work.  I don't know that I would be able to do it.

I'll be in Conakry until my school finds me a place to live in the town of Dubreka where the Institute of Fine Arts is located.  Hopefully this will be soon.

Big news is that I now have wireless internet!  I'm connected!

Oct 11 - Life in Conakry

I've now been in Guinea for 10 days.  Seems like yesterday - but it also seems like a lifetime ago!  I've been staying in the Catholic Mission which is near the massive "Marche Niger" or downtown market.  Everything really has gone quite well.  I have had to learn to wash out clothes by hand, and to specify NON-PIMENT when I order food!  Guinean food is quite spicy and they everyone adds even more peppers to their meals.  Piment was the first word I learned - spicy.  The 2nd word I learned was the one for traffic jam.  Traffic is really crazy here!
Had the opportunity last Sunday to attend an African Baptist church in Conakry.  What a marvelous time!  Happy, joyous people singing and praying.  Also had the opportunity to ride up to Dubreka which is where I'll be living and teaching.  About an hour north; mountainous; beautiful waterfalls just north of town.  I got to see the school facilities (well, at least the outside of them) and meet several of the professors and administrators.  I'll be teaching a form of Music History with a slant on American music and also a world music course.
Will probably be moving tomorrow.  I don't have housing in Dubreka yet but might be moving to another area downtown Conakry.

The secret to living here seems to be to be flexible.  The people are friendly and helpful and everyone has been willing to help out the American!

Oct 5 - i am here

using a french keyboard that is very hard to find the letters to type
doing fine very hot very very very hot     food is ok  living is tough 
praying for a miracle via the 1st ever free elections  but they keep getting postponed
i met the head of music for where ill be teaching = school wont start until after the elections 
met the ambassador meeting tomorrow with minister of higher education to hopefully get a research permit
good friends with local baptist missionaries very helpful and kind
staying in catholic mission tiny ac; mosquito nets very hot  shower is a hole in ground with hose and bucket
we are all rich as kings compared
i believe my plan of using videos to teach will be fun
the school is excited about my plan to create a means to write down the drum rhythms
hope the technology works  so far i cannot find power cord to computer  augh
lots of goats and chickens  unbelievable traffic
life is tough but god is strong

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