Dec 30 - Change in Plans

Having problems with my visa so my return to Guinea has been delayed at least a week.  Spending an extra week snowed in in Bemidji.  LOTS OF SNOW!  Sue is looking stronger and doing pretty well.  Pleased and blessed to have the opportunity to spend the holidays with my friends here.

Dec 28 - She's looking better!

My best friend, Sue, has been looking and feeling a little stronger the last couple of days.  What a blessing.  We've enjoyed just talking and being and sharing - an unexpected treat.

But I have visa problems.  Working on a way to get back to Guinea legally.  I had planned to be back there by January 3 because the school year was FINALLY going to start!

Dec 27 - A Blessed Holiday Visit

I made it back from Guinea to Minneapolis just fine - UNTIL we got to Minnesota and were hit by an all-night snow and ice storm.  Tough driving!  But I got to Bemidji about 3:30am.  My best friend, Sue, is doing a little better.  We're still looking for a Christmas miracle!

Picture was from a Coke machine in Brussels airport.  The "mannequin pis" is an unusual landmark/symbol of the city of Brussels.  But does it need to come with a Coke bottle???

Dec 18 - Home for Christmas

I've had an unexpected change in plans with my best friend, Sue, suddenly getting much sicker from the two forms of cancer that she is battling.  I decided yesterday that I need to go home and spend a little time with her and her family over the holidays.  I'm a little worried about my clothes situation.  I may be the only one in the Minneapolis airport wearing sandals!

Dec 16 - Still...

My blog updates are starting to sound like the weather report in Florida.  (Sunny and hot - always the same.)  More drumming.  More waiting.  No news on school starting.  Must be something that I have to learn here before I'm ready to move on to the next stage of my life.  Wish I could figure it out.

I lost a djembe head yesterday at the ballet rehearsal.  Moussa was playing it and the music got REAL intense.  Suddenly, POP!  Another goat is going to have to die on behalf of my djembe. 

Dec 14 - Still waiting

I got all my stuffed packed up and ready to go and then no one showed up to move me to Dubreka.  How disappointing.  I called and they said, "no, no, no, no, no."  Which, I suppose, means that I'll be staying here at the hotel in Conakry for a while longer.  But I'm making great use of my time.  Learning LOTS about the Guinean drums and music and culture.  Headed off again tomorrow to play for the ballet rehearsal.  Far harder than it sounds. 

Sorry about all the DRUM pictures.  But, you come to Guinea to learn to play the drums!

Dec 11 - More Drums + Some News!

When I arrived in Guinea 10 weeks ago I had no idea I'd spend all this time learning about Guinean traditional music.  In my mind I was just going to learn to play the djembe drum.  But I got really excited when I heard the Dunduns/Kankadis/Bahbahs/and the Sangbans.  It's amazing how complicated this music is.  I find I can play any of the parts - UNTIL YOU ADD THE BEAT!  I'm afraid my musical mind is so western-ized that this non-western music really blows me away.  Wow.  Working on it though.  Picture is an example of using bottle caps and a chart my brother made to notate the rhythm.

Did hear that I'll be moving to Dubreka and my teaching job at the Institute of Fine Arts on Monday.  This has been a very long delay to the start of the school year. 

Dec 6 - African Ballet

Had a great opportunity today to become an African Ballet accompanist on my djembe.  My performance wasn't marvelous but it was great fun and worth every drop of sweat.  Man, did we sweat!  We're in a fairly large empty room with concrete floor, walls, ceiling and windows on one side.  The percussionists sat in the front and played the accompaniment for the Ballet rehearsal.  Those dancers REALLY worked!  And the drummers were right with them.  Lots of local people squeezed in to watch the rehearsal.  I was honored and tickled to be a part of the Guinean culture today. 

Dec 2 - New President

Since we had no power and since it was too hot to sleep, I was awake to hear the sudden screams of people celebrating outside on the street about 12:45am.  As I suspected, the Guinean Supreme Court had finally ruled on the challenges to the Presidential election and declared Alpha Conde to be the new President.  A few minutes later the power miraculously came back on.  Hmmmm.  Anyway, congratulations to Guinea's new (and 1st democratically elected) President and thank GOD for electricity and water!

Nov 30 - Internet is back

Happy Thanksiving!  I’ve been without internet for a while so I’m behind on my greeting.  I was fortunate to be invited to share with some of the local American missionaries and we had a fabulous meal and a wonderful time together.  I was truly blessed by the afternoon.

In addition I also had my African music debut!  And I have video proof. 

No news on the official election results, no news on moving to Dubreka, no news on when school will start.  We wait.  The country is still on a 6pm-to-6am curfew every day pending, at least, the election result decision by the Supreme Court.  

Nov 22 - Waiting

No news - just hanging and waiting on the election results, my house in Dubreka to be ready, and the school year to be started.  Last I heard was that the Supreme Court would announce their decision on Dec 2.  I'm thinking that school won't start until January now.  Working on my djembe lessons.  Oh, and I was adopted by 3 African men as their sister.  Not completely sure what that means!

Nov 18 - State of Emergency

Turns out there's been more problems post-election-results than I was seeing in my neighborhood.  The government has declared a "state of emergency" with a 6-to-6 curfew nightly.  The election results have gone to the Guinean Supreme Court who have said they'd have an answer by the end of next week.  So far the school year is still being said to begin December 1.  I wonder now if we'll be able to start by then.

Pray for the people of Guinea.

I'm still not feeling very well and have to go back to the hospital tomorrow for more tests.  So far I've been real impressed with African hospitals! 

Nov 17 - New President!

As you may have heard, Alpha Conde was announced late Monday to be the newly-elected President of the Republic of Guinea.  Congratulations to him and to all of the people of Guinea - celebrating their first first free, democratic presidential elections since declaring independence in the late 1950s.  I have read that there have been some serious problems since the results were announced but I have not personally seen any.

About the time this was being announced, I came down with a bad stomach ache and ended up in the Emergency Room the next day (my first visit to an African hospital!) with pneumonia and food poisoning.  Thankfully I'm starting to feel a little better but I've missed a lot of the excitement. 

Pictures:
My new African dress done in batik: designed and made by Pastor Gibril.
After our concert: it's amazing how many drums you can fit in the trunk of a taxi.

Nov 15 - Still waiting

I think the national motto of Guinea might be "On attend" (We wait).  We wait for many things.  Right now it's for the electricity to come back on, for the new President to be announced, for jobs, for the rest of the world to notice this country...  I have learned bits and pieces every day since I've been here (now 6+ weeks) but ran into an article today that seemed to summarize everything I've heard.  I believe it to be quite accurate.  It's a little graphic but it describes much of the turmoil that is a daily occurrence here. 

I'll include the URL.  Read it and then pray for the people of Guinea and its new leadership.
http://www.google.com/hostednews/canadianpress/article/ALeqM5i46W2jswXCrt8j9IOZS2_6WKQ3VQ?docId=5080245

Nov 14 - No news yet

Although they'd promised results in 3 days, we still have no news yet on who the new President of Guinea will be.  But the start of the school year has been moved off again - now planned for December 1st.  I'm still hanging out in a hotel in Conakry waiting for my house to be ready in Dubreka where I'll be teaching - someday.  Taking a drum lesson each morning and working on my drum notation project.  Pictures are of my new "djembe shirt" done in batik.  My new favorite!

Nov 8 - ELECTION DAY

Yesterday, Nov 7, was the long-awaited first, free, democratic presidential election for the country of Guinea.  WOW!  Everything in the entire country was shut down so that people could go and vote.  24 hr curfew for those who were not in the process of voting.  I was not even allowed to go outside the hotel grounds.  I did, however, sneak out briefly just to the gate to get a few pictures of proud voters.  I was so proud of Guinea but I was even more proud to be an American.  I missed voting last week - but I won't miss it again.  It's a privilege that can't be taken for granted.  Maybe if we got our finger stained with ink after we voted, we would have more pride in our opportunity to vote?

Nov 6 - Why so many drum heads?

Got a good question earlier:  Am I wearing out the drum heads - and that's why they have to be changed?  No, there's a better chance that I am wearing out my HANDS before the drum head!  The problem is that the heads are splitting and pulling away from the wood part of the drum.  After we put THREE heads on my new drum, it turns out that the iron support about halfway down the drum was faulty.  It cost about 25,000 GF to buy a new skin.  OK, that's only about $4 - but it cost the goat a lot more!  So, I have a new head (again) on my djembe and it's sitting in the sun for Day 2 of 3 - drying and stretching the skin to make it incredibly tight.

[The night the first one broke, the djembe was in my hotel room and it sounded like a gun shot went off.  I sat straight up, looked around, and then noticed the drum head was split in two.]

Nov 5 - Visiting a school in Nongo

Had a lovely opportunity to visit a church school in Nongo today.  Probably 60 students divided into 3 classes operating in one room.  One group was learning parts of the body, the 2nd was learning about brushing teeth, and the 3rd was learning a Bible story.  A lot going on but everyone was on-task and working hard.  Fun to see.

Nov 4 - African ballet rehearsal

 The African ballet is the term for the traditional dances - especially when they're put together to tell a story.  I went to a rehearsal today and got to see marvelous Guinean dancers with superb traditional drummers putting together a program.  Everything they do takes amazing levels of energy.  Completely beyond me how they do it - especially in this heat.

Nov 3 - Goat skin to drum head to Djembe

Had to put a new head on my djembe so Moussa bought a goat skin, soaked it, shaved it, stretched it, and then tied all the ropes to the body that create the tension for the head.  Quite interesting.  Right now it's sitting in the sun for 3 days to dry and shrink all the skin.  Amazing what kind of sounds you can get out of a good drum head.  (Brother, Abu, in white shirt is helping.)

Nov 1 - Seeing a Guinean drum school

After my djembe lesson this morning, I went with my teacher, Moussa, back to his drum school.  Huge, empty warehouse with the deafening sounds of Guinean drums being learned and practiced.  Interesting experience.  After about 15-20 minutes I realized I was able to hear some of the different rhythm patterns going on within the music.  Dozen people playing and everyone has their own rhythm part.  Very complex and complicated to listen to.  The students serve as apprentices until they master all the rhythms and instruments of the Guinean cultures.  Can't imagine.

Oct 30 - Trip to the island of Kakossa

Many things going on but we've been without internet for several days.  Yesterday got the opportunity to accompany an African pastor friend to visit a school on a local island.  3 hours by truck, then boat, then motorcycle and walking to get to this village! Something I'll never forget.  Drank clean water from their own well and visited and played with 60 children who attend the school made of coconut fronds.  But what an experience.

Oct 26 - Crocodile Fanny Pack

As a fan of the University of Florida (GO GATORS!) you might think that I wouldn't choose to wear crocodile.  On the other hand, how cool!  Went down to the Marche Cumoyenne to have a crocodile fanny pack made to order.  I'm sure it will be the only one in Bemidji.  Life in Guinea rolls on.  No election.  No news, yet, on a new date.  The rainy season is coming to an end and I've *heard* it gets cooler the rest of the year.  That would be nice.  It's certainly very hot - although I seem to be the only one sweating.

I'll attach a couple of more pictures to those of you who need photographic proof that I drummed and danced at our FETE yesterday.

Oct 25 - Drum party

Today was our big drum party with my drum teacher, Moussa, and some of his students.  We had a grand time.  I even got to play some.  We attracted lots of people who heard the music, came to see what was going on, and stayed to dance a bit.  Great fun.  The music is incredibly complicated layers - once you start to hear and realize what's going on.  Each person plays a specific pattern and it's generally played over and over throughout the piece.  The leader or soloist is the one who does the improvising above the accompaniment patterns.  Very infectious.  Makes you want to dance - even if you don't know how!

Oct 24 - Sneak peak at pics

Act surprised if you see these again!

Oct 24 - Bad news on the Elections

Unfortunately, yesterday they announced that today's Presidential elections (1st free democratic elections in Guinea) would be postponed.  The two remaining candidates were able to agree on a new election commissioner but they needed more time to get ballots out to the rest of the country.  Tough news.  Many schools (including mine) have been waiting until after the elections to open.  Not sure what they'll do now.
I also managed to mess up my anti-virus so I'm sitting in a Cyber Cafe at the moment TRYING to get something downloaded that I can use.
Otherwise life is good.  Loving the drum lessons although I've decided I'm not a natural at it... Thankfully my teacher is very patient!  

Oct 21 - Shopping

Turns out a trip to the Marche Madina is quite the adventure!  I was very glad to have an African friend with me.  I walked in front and she walked behind with her hand on my shoulder.  Very crowded - like NYC Subway crowded - and lots going on.  Was able to find several things I needed, including fabric to make 3 African outfits.  After we got back to the Hotel, the local tailor came by and did my measurements.  Should be ready by next Tuesday. Very exciting!

Oct 20 - Clothes

Crazy day already.  Wild (good) lesson with my djembe teacher for about 2 hrs then the Administrator from the Institute knocked on my hotel door to see how I was doing.  He said he'd stopped by several times but I was never there.  (ooops)  Fish lunch.  Then I made an appointment with the head of the hotel rooms to go into the market tomorrow and buy some fabric and then go to a tailor to get something made.  I need some African clothes.  I sortof stick out.

I admit I wilted pretty badly with the 48 hrs of no electricity (fan, AC, water, etc) but otherwise I love Guinea and am having a great time!

Oct 19 - Electricity

I just lived through 48 hours of no electricity or water.  That was an eye-opening experience.  After I used up the batteries in my laptop and my camera and my block batteries, I really felt lost.  I realize this is normal for the people here - but my western psyche really struggled.  It was 90 degrees and literally I couldn't do anything but sweat .  Two things saved me:  #1 I was reminded that God always answers.  Sometimes He says "Yes" and other times He says "I have something better for you."  #2 I hung out all day on the from porch of the hotel with the staff and the waitresses and cooks.  We really had a grand time!  I showed my pictures from home - family, house, grass (never seen before) and SNOW!  About mid-afternoon they realized the water issue was really getting to me and they brought me a bucket of water from the pump.  It was the best shower of my entire life!

I've had 3 drum lessons and they're quite amazing.  Imaging learning to play the drum while sitting in a park in Guinea!  I've learned a great deal already.  Working on my SikLik project to help preserve  their rhythms.

Oct 17 - First lesson

The housekeeper knocked on my hotel door this morning to tell me that my djembe teacher was downstairs. Djembe teacher?  I had no idea I even had one!  Turns out my new djembe was the talk of the community and one of the staff had a brother...  So now I have a teacher.  I zipped back upstairs to get a trip and video camera.  (Wouldn't hurt to go back and review the rhythms etc.)  We worked about an hour and it was great fun.  I know it takes a lifetime to learn an instrument well - but I'm hoping I get get a good hold on it in 10 months.  This is a completely oral tradition.  I believe that the SikLik project could be helpful in notating the rhythms and heritage.

Oct 16 - Buying a djembe

I write all these stories down in my diary (and blog) because no one would believe them otherwise.  I got a taxi to go downtown to the big market to get some adapter power plugs.  I mentioned to the driver that I was also interested in going to a little market strip that had djembes and such.  He took me there first.  A little touristy but such cool things like crocodile purses, and wood carvings, and small versions of musical instruments.  *Then* the driver to me to the *real* place to get a djembe.  In the 30 minutes that I was there, I got a mini-lesson on a rhythm pattern, he helped pick out a good drum to fit me, and I got a "professors" price, and I bought myself a real Guinean djembe drum.  Goat skin, painted design.  The real thing.  Then we went to the downtown market and I got my plugs and then went home.  Loved having a taxi-driver-chauffeur that stayed with me!

What struck me when I got back, though, was that I *didn't* learn what I wanted to learn.  What the name of the rhythm was, how many times do you play the pattern, what hand starts, what does the rhythm look like, when do you add other rhythms, etc.  All very western, theoretical, "SikLik" questions.  So, it comes down to this:  I didn't learn what I wanted to learn.  Maybe I can learn what they want to teach?  Working on it.

Oct 15 - Getting busy on my Fulbright project

In addition to my teaching assignment (not sure when that will start), I also have to have a "project."  Based on a wonderful idea from my brother, James, we're working on creating a cyclical rhythmic notational system that the Guinean people themselves can use to notate the indigenous rhythms.  Western notation just doesn't work but we have an idea that I think has great potential.  We call it "SikLik" notation (get it?) and our goal is to NOT westernize their rhythms or music, but to enable them to write down their rhythms themselves.  The most popular drum in the area is the djembe drum so we're using that as our instrument.

It's a great project!  Kudos to my brother!

Oct 13 - Sitting in the Dark

I got moved and am currently staying at the Hotel for the University of Conakry.  A little more out-of-the-way but much better food!  Unfortunately electricity and running water are always issues.  Spent the evening at the Peace Corps Volunteer swearing-in ceremony.  These 8 have finished their training and are ready to head out to their 2 year assignments across the country.  Very admirable work.  I don't know that I would be able to do it.

I'll be in Conakry until my school finds me a place to live in the town of Dubreka where the Institute of Fine Arts is located.  Hopefully this will be soon.

Big news is that I now have wireless internet!  I'm connected!

Oct 11 - Life in Conakry

I've now been in Guinea for 10 days.  Seems like yesterday - but it also seems like a lifetime ago!  I've been staying in the Catholic Mission which is near the massive "Marche Niger" or downtown market.  Everything really has gone quite well.  I have had to learn to wash out clothes by hand, and to specify NON-PIMENT when I order food!  Guinean food is quite spicy and they everyone adds even more peppers to their meals.  Piment was the first word I learned - spicy.  The 2nd word I learned was the one for traffic jam.  Traffic is really crazy here!
Had the opportunity last Sunday to attend an African Baptist church in Conakry.  What a marvelous time!  Happy, joyous people singing and praying.  Also had the opportunity to ride up to Dubreka which is where I'll be living and teaching.  About an hour north; mountainous; beautiful waterfalls just north of town.  I got to see the school facilities (well, at least the outside of them) and meet several of the professors and administrators.  I'll be teaching a form of Music History with a slant on American music and also a world music course.
Will probably be moving tomorrow.  I don't have housing in Dubreka yet but might be moving to another area downtown Conakry.

The secret to living here seems to be to be flexible.  The people are friendly and helpful and everyone has been willing to help out the American!

Oct 5 - i am here

using a french keyboard that is very hard to find the letters to type
doing fine very hot very very very hot     food is ok  living is tough 
praying for a miracle via the 1st ever free elections  but they keep getting postponed
i met the head of music for where ill be teaching = school wont start until after the elections 
met the ambassador meeting tomorrow with minister of higher education to hopefully get a research permit
good friends with local baptist missionaries very helpful and kind
staying in catholic mission tiny ac; mosquito nets very hot  shower is a hole in ground with hose and bucket
we are all rich as kings compared
i believe my plan of using videos to teach will be fun
the school is excited about my plan to create a means to write down the drum rhythms
hope the technology works  so far i cannot find power cord to computer  augh
lots of goats and chickens  unbelievable traffic
life is tough but god is strong

janiceinguinea.com

Sept 30 - Headed to the airport in MSP

I leave for Minneapolis in 4 hours.  Unfortunately I have about 8 hours left of work to do.  Since I don't know what they think I should be teaching, I decided that my best bet would be to bring them something they don't have.  My choice?  YouTube videos!  There are marvelous examples of just about any kind of music in history or around the world!  I've been collecting everything from clips of sacred harp to Beethoven's 9th Symphony to didgeradoos from Australia and Chinese opera from Peking!  (My personal favorite?  Irish bagpipes!)  Driving to MSP today and flying out tomorrow.  The next 3 days will be quite an adventure.

Sept 22 - I HAVE A VISA!

Things are falling into place and I'll be ready to fly out on Oct 1.  Whew!  Thankful that my visa is in.

Sept 21 - The things I'm learning...

Just getting ready for this trip has been a real adventure.  I've been trying to create a way for me to have sound and video (including sheets on the windows if needed) to use in my music classes in Guinea. Since electricity is unreliable at best, I thought that rechargeable batteries for each component - and rechargeable batteries to use for everything - would work best.  Cinemin makes an UNBELIEVABLE miniature projector that is 2"x5" and will run for a little over 2 hours on a charge.  Projects video 6' wide!  Bose makes a portable speaker that should run for 5-6 hours.  I just hope I get there with all the right connections and the know-how to make everything work!

Sept 11 - Remembering

I was thinking, today, that I really didn't know anyone directly effected by the events of September 11, 2001 - and then I remembered my Mother, who was visiting me and helping me recover from rotator cuff surgery [ugh], was suddenly stuck in Bemidji because all the flights - nationally - were canceled.  That seems so small now, but all of our flights and travel have changed since and because of the events of that day.  Just thinking...

I finally got a ticket - planning on leaving October 1st.  Still working on the visa issues!  

Sept 1 - It's no long NEXT month that I leave!

Had a small moment of anxiety this morning when I realized that today was September 1st!  Although I don't have a ticket yet, I'm planning on leaving September 30th.  Still have lots to do.  Working on a blog and a website.  Working on collecting the technology I'll need to do my job and trying to be prepared to survive WHATEVER I'll be facing!